Do the midi ports provide power, I want to attach a Widi Jack to it.
Just in case Giedrius is not around, you might glean an answer from one of these posts
Midihub follows the DIN-5 MIDI electrical spec to the letter, so it should work just fine.
I rewired mine so that it both distributes & takes power from the unused outer connectors in the midi cabling. I have a master power supply (8.2V regulated camcorder supply rated at several amps, & yes we carry a spare!) that runs all of the midi gear that would normally need a wall-wart. all the controller devices, sequencers & keyboards are powered this way. much tidier.
the midihub can still be powered from usb- selected using the original on/off switch.
works fine, but you need to know what you’re doing with the wiring.
You mean you’re using pins 1 and 3 of the DIN connector to carry the power too?
since ages, aye. I couldn’t stand all the wall-warts & thin power cables draped everywhere, & then we needed the live bits to work in the US too, so it sort of designed itself.
some of the gear involved has the spare pins just sitting there doing nothing so it’s an easy mod, but there are two general categories of exception I’ve come across. some of the korg stuff (early electribes) is missing the metal inserts in the DIN sockets corresponding to the unused connections, so for those I would have a short flylead coming out of the back of the MIDI plug with a normal DC jack on the end. elsewhere, in some controller keyboards, I’ve found these connections already routed to the power supply, as if following the same general idea. these I just remove & add my own in, so I’m sure it will work.
I also have the peavey midibase (sic), three of them. the first was just a whim, but it proved useful in my band to be able to play bass & some rudimentary keys simultaneously. I bought a spare, & then a third, but neither had the adaptor box or special cable, so I reverse-engineered the existing adaptor & discovered that all it was doing was inverting the MIDI data & providing power to the bass. I could break the MIDI & audio signals out at the bass end- preferable anyway because of zipper noise on the audio down the multicore…
I shoved a 2N3904 into the bass to get the MIDI the right way up, & then discovered that the bass needed 6V at around 50mA, so that took care of that- it went on the ring-main too.
all of this is reversable, but it really is a good idea, especially if the gear travels.